In the 1980s, American interest in wine saw a sharp upturn. This was largely due to the exciting wines coming out of California and France, two regions long associated with fine wine. But one country seemed to emerge out of nowhere: Chile.

Set in a pristine, isolated corner of the world, blessed with a climate and topography that nearly mirrored California, helped along by low labor costs, and largely spared of pests, Chilean wines seemed to be everything American consumers loved about California wine—but for a fraction of the price.

The History of Chilean Wine

Chile’s wine industry, in fact, took about 400 years to emerge, starting in the mid-16th century with vines brought to the country by Spanish missionaries. Early wines were mostly simple, made from the grapes Listan Prieto (known as País in Chile, and Mission in the U.S.) and Moscatel de Alejandria (Muscat of Alexandria). These wines were suitable for the Eucharist mass, but could also slake a more secular thirst.

Different varieties were introduced by other settlers over subsequent generations, but in the mid-19th century Chilean mining barons imported vines from the most esteemed regions of France. These included Cabernet Sauvignon, Cot (Malbec), Merlot, Carménère (which was confused with Merlot for over a century), Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. The mining barons also hired French enologists and viticulturalists to realize their aspirations to make world-class wines. 

The bottlings that stirred global interest in the 1980s came largely from heirs of those ambitious producers. Stylistically, they offered the fruit-forward deliciousness of California wines with the restraint associated with French wine. And they were a great value, rarely priced at more than $10 per bottle. At that low mark, the game for most producers was all about volume: grow lots of fruit, crush, ferment, and age, then sell lots of wine. Soon outside investors made their way in, notably Kendall-Jackson and Robert Mondavi from California, the Rothschilds (Lafite and Baron, separately) of Bordeaux, Miguel Torres from Spain, and others. All expected to make a profit and, hopefully along the way, a world-class wine from Chile’s exemplary grapes.

Varied Topography Yields a Fascinating Variety 

Nearly 3000 miles long and, on average, 100 miles wide, Chile is bracketed by the frigid Pacific to the west, the Andes to the east, the arid Atacama desert in the north, and in the south the stormy Tierra del Fuego, the gateway to Antarctica. The country offered multiple climatic possibilities for winemakers to ply their trade.

In the ‘80s, the focus was on the Central Valley (Valle Central) with its Mediterranean-like climate, warm and dry summers, and mild, moderately wet winters. The valley stretches over 300 miles north to south, with the Andes to the east and coastal mountains separating it from the Pacific. Chile’s capital, Santiago, which bears some resemblance to Los Angeles, sits in its northern third, and urban expansion has placed important vineyards within its municipal limits. Most of the well-made, value wines came from the Central Valley, usually identified by the large sub-regions Aconcagua, Maipo, Cachapoal, Colchagua, Curicó, and Maule.

Vineyards closest to the Andes, regardless of latitude, can climb up to 2000 feet or more above sea level. Days are warm; nights and mornings are cool. Those at lower elevations on the plains experience warmer temperatures, conditions for fruit ripening that bring Chilean peaches, plums, and cherries to North America during the winter. Vineyards closer to the Pacific are cooler overall and promote slower ripening that is especially suitable for varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The Future of Chilean Wine

Despite the diversity and potential of Chilean wine, there was also a uniformity to it, sort of an “international” profile that marketing managers thought would appeal to wine drinkers in the U.S., UK, Europe, and East Asia. When I traveled to Chile for the first time in 2004, I visited yet another grower who spoke of producing a half million cases over the next five years. I asked one of Chile’s most prominent wine writers, Patricia Tapia, where the small producers were. “Hard to find,” he said. “Most people are thinking big.”

As it turned out, Chilean wine was on the verge of tremendous change. International interest had in turn stimulated young Chilean winemakers to learn more about what was happening elsewhere. Many of them discovered that characterful wines from lesser-known varieties made by small producers were appreciated by open-minded consumers. In fact, Chile’s long heritage of winemaking included varieties planted by colonists and immigrants over generations, in regions not normally considered part of the map of fine-winemaking. Of special interest were antiquarian vine País (some vineyards were 200 years of age or older) and Cinsault from Itata, as well as Carignan, especially from Maule. For the latter, an association was formed called Vignadores de Carignan (VIGNO) to valorize a grape that was often maligned as rustic.

Winemakers were also rethinking how to approach classic grapes like Cabernet, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Carménère. The latter is a Bordeaux-origin grape thought to have disappeared in France over a century ago that was discovered in Chile in 1994 masquerading as Merlot. Wines became fresher and more delicate, with less over-the-top ripe fruit and oak flavors, a bit lighter in body and alcohol, and greater acidity. Plantings in cooler regions closer to the Pacific or higher in elevation facilitated that trend, allowing for a greater diversity of wines in Chile than ever before.

To explore this diversity, here are a few regions to look for.

Maipo
Chile’s most famous wine region and home to most of the country’s legacy wineries, Maipo surrounds Santiago, with most of the region’s 30,000 acres south of the capital. The climate is Mediterranean, but its climate zones differ according to proximity to the Andes and the ocean, elevation, and topography. Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, with its top wines among the best in the world. Areas near the coast are increasingly known for crisp, aromatic whites.

Colchagua
South of Maipo (with Cachapoal in between), Colchagua shares a similar climate to Maipo, with perhaps more diverse soil types and greater oceanic influence in parts. Cabernet Sauvignon reigns, but the region’s Carménère and Syrah are also noteworthy.

Maule
The Central Valley’s southernmost region is also its largest, with over 90,000 acres under vine. Its climate follows the same pattern as other regions, but varied topography and microclimates allow for more idiosyncratic wines. While classic varieties do well here, Maule’s greatest strength might be in less-appreciated grapes like Carignan, which has its own association: VIGNO.

Itata
South of the Central Valley, Itata is home to some of the oldest viticulture in Chile, dating back to the 16th century. For decades, it was regarded as a source for grapes to bulk up wines made in other regions. But starting two decades ago, the region became seen as a place of unexploited potential. Noteworthy are its old vines—mostly País and Moscatel—planted over two centuries ago, as well as Cinsault and Chasselas. Winemakers have flocked here to make distinctive, light-bodied, vibrant wines that were totally different from the Chilean norm. Pipeño, a historically rustic style of wine, made with foot-trodden grapes and meant for early consumption, is especially valued.

Here are some Chilean wines to try now.

Whites

NV Carmen DO Florillón #6 Apalta ($25) 

An historic winery in Chile, Carmen proves it’s absolutely capable working on the cutting edge. Florillón started as an unexpected experiment—fully fermented Semillon wine with a veil of flor, the downy yeast that is responsible for many of the distinctive wines of Spain’s sherry region. The result is a savory, saline white with apple, peach, and mushroom flavors, accented by lemon zest and mouthwatering minerality. One of Chile’s most thrilling wines.

2024 Casa Silva ‘Lago Ranco’ Riesling Patagonia ($20)

Casa Silva makes a lot of the straightforward varietal wines, but it also pushes boundaries, sometimes quite literally. This wine is made in Patagonia, a region that until this millennium was thought too cool for fine wine production. This Riesling proves what’s possible— bone dry yet full of citrus blossom, peach notes, and fresh acidity that might carry it for years. 

2024 Laberinto ‘Cenizas’ 2024 Sauvignon Blanc Maule ($24)

Rafael Tirado, who has made wine at many of Chile’s most well-known wineries, planted his own vines in a special corner of Maule, with volcanic ash-soils (cenizas) over a bedrock of granite. The lemony, white guava flavors speak of cooler climate Sauvignon Blanc, with fine mineral components speak unmistakably about place. Sancerre fans will love this.

2024 Roberto Henríquez ‘Super Estrella’ Torontel Itata ($24)

Made from the aromatic Torontel grape, this presents subtle notes of wildflower honey and bee pollen, with a grip akin to biting into a gingery apple. Really awakens the palate.

Orange/Skin Contact 

2024 Vinícola Atacalco ‘Cárabe de Casablanca’ Pinot Gris ($23)

Pinot Gris is usually used for white wine, despite its pink skin. Master winemaker Ricardo Baettig macerates this on the skins for three months, bringing out the pink and adding some tannin. The result is a savory, spicy wine with yellow fruit flavors: apple, peach, and raspberry. Delicious. 

Red

2023 Ana Maria Cumsille Lomas Coloradas Cariñena Itata ($30)

For over two decades, Ana Maria Cumsille has been behind some of Chile’s most important wines from prestigious wine regions. But she puts her own name on wines from humble Itata, drawn to its heritage and the potential that comes from its old vines. At 45 years, these vines aren’t ancient, but they evoke the earth’s wisdom in the form of brambly red fruit, a granitic minerality, and fresh acidity. Search for anything she does, especially her marvelous Aguila País that reveals the grape’s potential elegance while maintaining its earthy roots.

2024 Clos des Fous Subsollum Pinot Noir Aconcagua ($22)

Not an indulgent Pinot Noir, this lithe wine is about tart cherry and green tea notes with a terrific cool, mouthwatering balance. 

2021 De Martino Vigno Carignan Maule ($55)

Two decades ago, De Martino followed the path of least resistance, making solid if boring wines to satisfy the market. Their trajectory dramatically changed with the arrival of Marcelo Retamal, who valorized previously ill-considered grape varieties. Among these was generally disregarded Carignan planted seven decades ago. The result is a velvet-textured wine with a sumptuous purity of red cherry and spice flavors. De Martino’s Tinajas Cinsault is more demure, but it offers juicy mixed berry flavors in a light bodied wine.

2021 Edición M.R. Vino de Mesa Valle del Maipo  ($29)

Proof that any particular grape variety is a blank canvas, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon defies expectations by being light bodied, full of tart red berry and fine, peppery spice without any of the green pepper flavors that typify less-ripe, low-alcohol (11.8% abv) Cab. A real eye-opener.

2023 Gilmore Mariposa País ($16)

As others approach País with serious intention, Gilmore delivers on its simple charms: red berry, light body, and vibrant acidity. Chill and pour with whatever you’re eating.

2024 J. Bouchon ‘País Viejo’ Maule Valley ($16)

They say you can’t teach an old dog new tricks, but Pais is a storied wine that can develop and change with time. This old vine País starts off simple and rustic, more led by stems than by fruit, but with air, the fruit gathers up its mettle, showing off flavors of wild red, brambly berries that seem to emerge from an outcropping of granite. 

2022 Roberto Henríquez ‘País Franco’ Bio-Bio Valley ($26)

País, the variety that launched the wine industries in the Americas, often appears as a no more than charming quaffer. This one is thrilling, with a perfume of exotic spices and wild herbs, in a pool of ripe red cherries and pomegranate.