Rare are the homebars of the 21st century that are equipped with a brandy warmer. The sideways snifter propped above a flickering tea candle feels more like a vestige from some old Alfred Hitchcock picture, slowly warming the spirit to release volatile aromatics. Overall, brandy is often thought of as a stodgy spirit these days, with just a few select strongholds keeping its legacy alive. But, as grape-based spirits struggle to gain traction with new consumers, it is the perfect moment for the category to reinvent itself.

Brandy’s plight has been particularly acute in recent years. According to data from IWSR, the global leader for beverage alcohol data and insights, the compound annual growth rate for brandy in the US from 2022 to 2024 was -7 percent, worse than any other spirit category during the same period. Just this January, LVMH reported that cognac sales in the U.S. and China in particular were weighing down the company’s declining revenue. While the traditional centers of brandy production lag, now is the time for new regions to court international consumers with intriguing grape spirits that satisfy both wine and whiskey lovers equally. 

Brandy for the Wine Lovers

Brandy follows in the footsteps of wine, and, like wine, brandy relies on both varietal and environmental factors to determine its expression of flavor. Some of the most exciting brandies out there are speaking the oenophile’s language of terroir, drawing on unique selection of varietals, high altitude growing, and windswept vineyards to create distinct spirits. 

It should come as no surprise that some of the most ancient wine producing regions of the world craft legacy brandies. Georgia, which has produced wine for around 8,000 years, has enjoyed a recent resurgence in the international popularity of its wine. Brandy may follow suit.The country’s oldest brandy house, which once sold to the Russian Czar and was later run by the Soviet Union, was only reprivatized and reintroduced to the world in the last two decades. Through all of this, Sarajishvili has been making brandy aged in oak since 1884. 

What’s most exciting about Sarajishvili’s brandies, beyond its oak-mellowed, balanced-but-sharp VSOP, is that the house relies heavily on some of the beloved native grape varietals of Georgia. Local grapes like Chinuri, Goruli Mtsvane, Tsitska, and Tsolikouri offer distillers advantageous high acidity, a common trait in any good brandy grape. As the wine world warms up to vintages and indigenous varietals from the Caucasus region, esteemed brandy houses like Sarajishvili should become better known. 

We then turn to South Africa’s domination of Chenin Blanc. Here, too, we find a brandy connection. While Chenin Blanc, locally called Steen, grows well on the windy vineyards of the Cape, it was historically used as an input of the local brandy industry. Along with Colombard, South African winegrowers favored Chenin Blanc as a suitable base for the country’s once booming brandy industry. Some of South Africa’s signature wines owe their existence to brandy.

Narina Cloete, head winemaker at Blaauwklippen, explained: “Brandy is a big part of the South African wine and spirits history. As Blaauwklippen is the oldest wine farm in Stellenbosch, it is a must for somebody that values great brandy, history, and tradition.” She pointed to two varietals, Colombard and Chenin Blanc, as being essential.“They are the workhorses of South Africa’s white grape varieties and make excellent base wines for our brandies,” she said. While the vineyard is known for their red wines, Blaauwklippen also pot distills the iconic white grapes and ages the eau-de-vie for 10 years. 

Further off the beaten path is a rising star in the category—Singani, Bolivia’s unique, high-altitude brandy made from Muscat of Alexandria grapes. Unlike the oak-aged expressions of Georgia and South Africa, Bolivians tend to drink their Singani as a clear spirit, often in a chuflay, a highball made with ginger ale and citrus. This common usage bolsters the relevance of brandy as a cocktail spirit. 

“We are lucky that Singani is as versatile as it is, simply by nature,” said Singani 63 CEO Richard Scully, “Many bars and restaurants showcase their creativity by pushing Singani to new limits. We see this in the excitement of early adopters—they share their enthusiasm, encouraging new experimentation, and the creativity continues. Singani’s distinctiveness makes it stand out like a new color in a box of crayons, offering an original experience to cocktail culture.” 

The most distinct part of Singani production? The grapes must grow in vineyards at least 5,250 feet above sea level. The spirit is light, bright, sharp—just like the dizzying altitudes of the Andes.

In Eastern Europe, the Balkans are also home to a deep distilling tradition. But the most intriguing offerings from this region ultimately push the oenological envelope—they are made from plums instead of grapes. While you might be hard pressed to find a Serbian wine at your local shop, imported rakija offers a different essence of fruit. Serbian brandies, in particular, treat plums just as winemakers treat grapes. Brands like Stara Sokolova distill spirits only from the trnovača variety, while Yebiga opts for the čačanska rodna fruit. If you’ve memorized all your grape varietals, it might be time to sip some Balkan brandies and brush up on your plums. 

Brandy for the Whiskey Lovers

If talk of varietals and terroir is not enticing enough, brandy has the dual-appeal of being an aged spirit. From time-honored cognacs matured in French oak to newer brands relying on used bourbon barrels, brandy is a spirit that can be very appealing to whiskey lovers. 

Take, for example, Asbach Uralt, a German brandy that has a variety of aged expressions at different price points. The legacy distillery on the right bank of the Rhine looks to cognac as a model and exclusively uses Limousin oak from south-central France to age its spirits. 

In America, Louisville distillery Copper & Kings is vying to reclaim brandy’s story as a heritage American spirit by relying on bourbon barrels for maturation. “If I told you that for every three bottles of bourbon sold in America, there is one bottle of brandy sold, it would be hard to believe,” said Rob Bourdon, owner and CEO of Copper & Kings American Brandy Company.

His distillery buys Muscat, Chenin Blanc, and Colombard grapes from California, but the rest of the process, from fermentation to distillation and aging, is rooted in Kentucky’s bourbon tradition. From custom fabricated copper pot stills to aging in ex-bourbon barrels, Copper & Kings keeps pace with their corn-fed counterparts, although there are differences.“We have a cellar downstairs and we control our aging environment,” said Bourdon. “We don’t have that rough and tough aging environment that bourbon goes through; brandy is a softer spirit.” 

It’s not that there is no brandy-making tradition in the U.S.—on the contrary, Bourdon wants to reclaim that history. “We have this rich American heritage with brandy, and if you asked someone on the street, they wouldn’t know that,” he said. But when we look at the domestic brands that dominate the category, they are selling at lower price points and gathering dust on the bottom shelf. The largest brands, like Gallo’s E. & J., Sazerac’s Paul Masson, Heaven Hill’s Christian Brothers, and Korbel, all hail from the vineyards of California. 

It makes sense that America’s brandy heartland would be where over 80 percent of its grapes are grown, but these brands aren’t necessarily trying to capture the attention of new consumers. Instead, excitement is drawn to brands like Copper & Kings that are adding a new small-batch, craft spirit twist to the category. 

In farflung countries, distillers are approaching the brandy category with a newfound vigor (even if they follow a centuries-old tradition.) “Drinkers around the world are self educating like never before and seeking fun, new and authentic experiences,” said Singani 63’s Scully, “The category of grape spirits is vast and exciting.” 

Even as brandy struggles at the macro level, there is a silver lining coming from regions that have not always been part of the discussion. Cognac may feel a bit dated and stuffy to some, but Georgian brandy has the apricot zing of a newfound treasure, South African brandy breathes with the southeasterly winds of the Atlantic, and Kentucky is adding some Southern char and sweetness to California grapes. If you look around, it’s easy to see that the current doldrums in the brandy industry could be setting the stage for some exciting new waves to come.