Serious wine collectors are familiar with the treasures of Burgundy, but the area’s go-to regions are beginning to change. While coveted bottles have long hailed from the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, collectively known as the Côte d’Or, the past decade has seen a growing interest in the Hautes-Côtes sub-region, both from local producers and consumers alike. 

Situated high above the Côte d’Or, the Hautes-Côtes of Burgundy comprise a series of elevated plateaus and soaring hills spanning 275 to 480 meters, planted to Aligoté, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir vineyards. Significantly cooler than most of the Côte d’Or, the vineyards of the Hautes-Côtes had long been overlooked by local and international professionals alike—that is, until recently. While the cooler temperatures have long corresponded to a lack of ripeness in grapes, in the wake of climate change these vineyards, once deemed second-rate, are now proving to be wildly advantageous.

New York-based wine consultant and educator Raj Vaidya explained that the cooler temperatures that once made the Hautes-Côtes a lower-status region are simply gone. “In the age of a warming climate, these vineyards are a wonderful source of fresh, old-fashioned wines from Burgundy,” he said. Vaidya also noted that the Hautes-Côtes is home to a greater diversity of soil types (clay, Bajocian marls, colluvial deposits of sand and flint), beyond the ubiquitous clay-limestone mix found on the Côte d’Or. The result is more diverse, and often interesting, flavors.

According to Vaidya, grapes in the Hautes-Côtes regularly achieve phenolic ripeness at the same time as sugar ripeness—a key component to balance and age-worthiness in wines. By contrast, sugar ripeness on the Côte d’Or now tends to outpace phenolic maturity. “This means that there is less acidity and freshness due to higher potential alcohols,” he said, noting that Hautes-Côtes vineyards now offer more balance and harmony for a fraction of the price of those found in the Côte’s villages-level and cru-designated appellations. 

​​Julia Schwartz, wine director at New York-based Stars, also praised Burgundy wines coming from these higher-elevation areas. “Land in the Hautes-Côtes that was once difficult to farm is now viable, even thriving and affordable,” she said, noting that it's a far cry from the prices demanded by plots on the Côte d’Or. That's made vineyards here accessible to younger and newer producers alike. 

Matt Turner, wine director at New York-based Lei, agreed: “You get expert farming and winemaking applied directly to more value-driven land,” he said. He pointed to Domaine Dandelion, Elodie Roy, Sylvain Cathiard, and Chântereves as being four standout producers showcasing great sites for great value. And according to Schwartz, long-standing growers from the Cote d’Or are equally finding wins here. “Even established producers like Pierre Boisson [from the Cotes de Beaune] recognized this potential and planted vines in 2016 to a site that had never seen viticulture,” she said. The wine, his Cuvee 'Le Chemin de Pierre,’ is often priced well under $100 on a list. 

The Hautes-Côtes has also become a place for authentic, wine-focused tourism. Milena Berman and Loïc Lamy founded their experience-focused company, aptly named Hautes Côtes, back in 2021. Lamy noted that the majority of Burgundy-bound wine lovers stick to busy, touristy areas, and that he and Berman sought to change that. “We find the Hautes-Côtes super interesting, as this is where you’ll find local artisans, new-generation winemakers, cool innovative projects, and hidden gems—that is, if you know where to look,” he said. That’s not to mention its natural beauty, which is characterized by lush forests, towering oak trees, and a variety of local flora (linden, acacia, and wild peony).

Lamy and Berman note that the majority of their international visitors don’t know much about the area, save for the fact that it’s off the beaten path. Generally, the pair kick off their tours with Burgundy’s more famous villages—Puligny-Montrachet, Vosne-Romanée, and Gevrey-Chambertin—prior to bringing guests up to the Hautes-Côtes. By the end of the journey, the Hautes-Côtes is generally the most memorable. “Guests remember the tiny restaurant with no tourists, the traditional breadmaker, the young couple starting a new winery project after training with the most famous winemakers,” he said, describing the area as a true, authentic picture of Burgundy, where relationships matter more. And that same sense of soul can be found within the region’s wines. 

Turner stated that anyone looking for high-quality winemaking can easily search for Hautes-Côtes bottlings from top producers or old-vine parcels and find incredible quality to value ratio. “If you are also looking to experience a producer style and they make an Hautes-Côtes,” he said, “it can be a good example of how pricier sites may drink.” Schwartz agreed. “Haute-Cotes wines are an exciting entry for young and curious drinkers who would otherwise ignore Burgundy due to its price point,” she said.

Julia Schwartz has observed that experienced collectors, noting their similarities to Old School Burgundy, are also flocking to the wines. “The price and increased availability means wines from producers they know and love don't have to be limited to special occasions and ‘serious’ meals,” she said. At the end of the day, Lamy summed it up best: “Most people look for an appellation name, leaving the Hautes-Côtes overlooked; however, there is so much talent up here.” 

Four Hautes-Côtes Wines to Try Now

Domaine Pierre Boisson Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune ‘Le Chemin de Pierre’ Blanc ($43)

Produced from an organically-farmed plot planted in 2016, this 100% Chardonnay from Pierre Boisson is aged for 15 to 19 months in barrels (mostly used). On the palate, the wine is refreshing and mineral-driven with flavors of lush stone fruit and citrus flavors with harmonious undertones of smoke and baking spice. 

Maison Chanterêves Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune ‘Les Monts de Fussey’ Blanc ($76)

Fruit for Chanterêves’ Le Mont de Fussey cuvée (100% Chardonnay) comes from a southeast-facing vineyard planted at 400 meters altitude above the village of Echevronne. Here, the soils are mostly stony limestone and marl, with all farming done using organic and biodynamic methods. The wine is vinified with native yeasts and aged for 12 months in 228L and 600L barrels. Lively notes of orchard fruit, bright citrus, and crushed stone lead to a long, persistent finish.

Domaine Hudelot-Baillet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Rouge ($45)

From the celebrated Chambolle-Musigny based Hudelot-Baillet, this Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Rouge packs a serious punch. Vinified with a low-intervention mentality and entirely destemmed fruit, the wine ages for 12-18 months in barrels prior to release. Notes of dark fruits, plum, and damp earth are balanced by juicy acidity and grippy, well-integrated tannins.

Domaine de Cassiopée Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune ‘Les Côtes’ Rouge ($65)

From up-and-coming duo Hugo Mathurin and Talloulah Dubourg, who formerly trained with Jean-Marc Roulot and Benjamin Leroux, this structured and high-toned Pinot Noir is drawn  from 50-year-old vines rooted in granitic bedrock. In the cellar, the wine is fermented with native yeasts and aged for one year in used barrels prior to bottling without fining or filtration. Fragrant and energetic, the wine offers flavors of red cherry, cranberry, rose petal, and wet granite.